Category Archives: Toronto

Toronto to Detroit on Greyhound

I’m not actually recommending this, just saying I’m doing it. One-way on WestJet is $603; the slightly cheaper flights go via Washington or Philadelphia which given that Detroit is just a hop over the water, doesn’t make much sense. There are trains – VIA Rail – to Windsor ($39), and taxis and shuttle buses across the border, but it’s not much quicker than the bus, and the bus journey doesn’t end at the border amidst uncertainty and confusion about connections and taxi fares. No, it ends here, and so now I’m wondering whether buying a $42 ticket on the Greyhound Package Express was such a good idea. The reviews aren’t great, to be honest:

If you would like to visit the details are: 1001 Howard Street Detroit, +1 313-961-8011, The bus leaves Toronto from Bay St opposite the north end of the Eaton Centre. (And the journey was fine – 5 and a half hours with leg room, pleasant homeland security officials in the tunnel, and no muggings, decapitations* or creepiness anywhere en route, including at the Detroit terminus despite being met by Dave working a Bill Nighy look and sporting a new cravat.

* refers to a story told to me by George as I was boarding (Man beheaded on Greyhound bus: Screaming passengers fled in terror from a Greyhound bus as an unidentified fellow passenger suddenly stabbed a man sleeping next to him, decapitated him and waved the severed head at horrified witnesses standing outside.


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Subject to all the necessary paperwork, I could live here. Vibrant, affordable, on the up and up, cool not slick, deep pockets of character, great, small bars and eateries, plenty of style and a good public transport system in the TTC. A $300,000 loft apartment in the yet-to-be-built but much trumpeted Oz development would do me. However, dead leaves are scuttling in the ice winds off the lake, pigeons are parking themselves on the steam vents from the subway, and it’s time for me to hug George, give him a hat, and leave him to practice his bass and party on. I’ve got a suspicion that Somewheresville might just be the place that’s home to someone you love, however, for now, I’m going to go and have a look at America.

Live in Toronto

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Toronto local

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Queen Street West and Ossington Avenue aren’t the prettiest of places, but there are few better for lurching from cafe to gallery to brick-walled restaurant via a few vintage shops and tiny, cosy bars. Gentrification is underway hence concrete mixers, cranes and the weird mix of shabby and chic. Which isn’t the same as shabby chic. Heading east from Dufferin to Trinity Bellwoods most of the original buildings on the south side have gone, to be replaced by loft condos, banks, and marts – hence the plaintive ‘You’ve changed’ plastered on an end wall. There are whole stretches that are just boring.

However, the revitalisation along Ossington Avenue, which intersects it at Starbucks, sort of makes up for it. Ossington now has the densest concentration of good, buzzy restaurants  in Toronto. Vancouver’s Salt seems they have spawned a branch here: Salt Wine Bar, serving the same mix of non-Spanish tapas (Alberta bison tartar, ginger soy & coriander) and flights of local wine. Next door, there’s the highly recommended Pizza Libretto, convivial, with great pizzas that manage to have succulent rather than snapping thin crusts (but be prepared to queue at the bar). This being Little Portugal, there’s Portuguese steam stew and bacalhau to take out from Alex Rei Dos Leitoes Churrasqueira next door to that. A couple of minutes back down towards Queen (no.92) there’s Cuban dinners (pork, rice, beans, plaintain) in the cosy environs of Delux, and at no.108, the fabulously aromatic Amaya Express (which also does take-outs – starters are huge).

Ossington is a 6 min walk from the 9flats apartment I’m currently basking in. If you can’t be bothered to go that far, a stone’s throw away on Queen, there’s the Drake Hotel for art, music, cheeky chic and cocktails and for more of a at-one-with-the-community, music, art and fantastic breakfasts, the Gladstone. And given that the first three floors of this condo block are reserved for people working in the arts, there’s a gallery space with frequent events and parties in the lobby.

Should point out, on a really local level is that there are two big blocks in development on the threshold. You don’t see the digging, trucking action from inside, you don’t hear it much, but you might trudge through mud to get home.

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A place, Toronto

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Yup, everything in this apartment is beautiful, from the massive heavy-framed mirror, art, cool classic and reclaimed furniture to plates with birds on, and  heavy knives and forks in the sleek, white drawers.  Industrial pipes, steel surfaces (an old fridge door for a desk) and concrete floors give the urban edge; cushions, lush textiles, rugs, clever lighting and good heating provide the warmth.

I haven’t done one of these stay-in-someone’s-home things before, and I wasn’t sure how it was going to work, and whether I was going to like it. I was also baffled as to why anyone in their right mind would relish the prospect of strangers loafing about on their sofas and handling their glassware, unsupervised. Now I get it.

Firstly, it works very simply; after registering and booking, I exchanged a couple of emails and texts about arrival times with the owner, and she met me at the door, helped lug my case, showed me the contents of the fridge and how the lights went on and off and, after a bit of banter, took a deposit, handed over the keys and went to Montreal. And I do like it. I don’t feel beholden; I feel independent. It has all the advantages of home but with better art and a different city through the window.

The fact you’re trusted with the run of someone’s home means that you’re careful, respectful and take a proprietary pleasure in keeping it all shipshape and Bristol fashion. I’m going to look for more, but this has set the bar very high. If you want to stay here visit the property page on

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Alternatives to hotels in Toronto

I’ve put a lot of thought into this as a regular visitor over the past five years, sharing my findings in High Life, The Times etc (Toronto: 6 of the Best, although it’s 2008 vintage and things have changed). If I was here for shopping, baseball and shows I’d probably look for a hotel left and right of Yonge Street, roughly between Dundas and Front St, but I’m not.

For me, personally, it’s Toronto’s independent, edgy, arty side that appeals. Historically that’s manifested itself nicely along Queen St West, and while the Shoppers Drug Marts and Starbucks and clothing chains are moving in, and low-rise old brick buildings are being uprooted for glassy condos, it’s still got soul, and hipsters, good coffee hangouts and a community feel, and it’s intersected by Ossington, which, once the place for storage units and tyres, is now lined with cool bars and galleries and the best little restaurants in town.

The area has two of my favourite hotels – The Gladstone and The Drake, but while rooms at both are beautifully stylish, the majority are also compact. Neither hotel is ideal for a longer stay on my moderate budget, and neither offer the kind of space I need when looking for somewhere for my son and I to stay, hangout, cook and eat.

Basically what we need is a home and, as I don’t have one, I went online and booked a week in someone else’s through It’s a European company expanding through North America, and has a good range of Toronto properties on its books. As the new kid on the block and a competitor to the likes of Airbnb, they offer good deals. Here’s their blurb:

On, you can rent out someone else’s apartment, room or house (or even igloo) and enjoy feeling more at home while you travel. Or you can earn money renting out your spare space. Our aim is to make travel more rewarding, comfortable and affordable, and to give homeowners an easy way of boosting their income. A nice side-effect is that the world can make smarter use of existing resources. Stay in a local’s place and enjoy . . .

More value for money. You rent from a person rather than a hotel with big overheads, so you can find amazing offers, in usually unattainable locations. And, of course, you can eat cheap, delicious local food in your own kitchen, instead of eating out. Save even more by renting a private room, rather than a whole apartment.

More privacy and home comforts. There’s nothing like coming home to a comfy apartment or house at the end of a busy day’s sightseeing. As a group or family, you’ll love having a living room to hang out in and a kitchen to cook together. 9flats is also perfect for couples who want their own space, and even business people who want to put some personality into their work trips.

More local tips. No one knows their city like a local. You’ll be renting from a host who knows the best bars, cafes and shops in the neighbourhood: precious knowledge that could take years to discover on your own. If you’re lucky, they might even show you around the area themselves.Some people call it social travel, some call it collaborative consumption, some call it peer-to-peer rentals, we just call it a good idea. We hope you think so too.”

Well, yes I do. Toronto properties range from manly corporate condos with access to gyms and pools and parking to five-bedroom Victorian family homes and open-plan lofts, and from spare rooms in the hosts’ apartments to sole occupancy. Rooms for cheap and cheerful on a budget start under CAD$30, sole use of studio apartments from around CAD$50, and there are loads of 2+ bed sole occupancy condos and lofts around the CAD$80-$130 mark, as well as luxury condos for a bit more. What’s more, they’re all over the place – not only in the heart of downtown, but in areas like Cabbagetown, Yorkville and, joy of joys, to the West.

Of those, before leaving London, I picked something that described itself as a 2-bed  condo, located in the heart of downtown Toronto’s trendy Arts and Design District. The size and location ticked the boxes, but what really decided me was the painting on the wall I could see in the picture. It’s weird to think a piece of art, a wall colour or chair style should be the factor that clinches a rental deal, but I’m optimistic about my decision-making strategy.

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